Thermal Shock Treatment

More effective and Longer Lasting than sodium hypochlorite.

An eco-friendly method used to eliminate stubborn white lichen (crustose lichen) from outdoor stone, concrete, and masonry surfaces without resorting to harsh chemical biocides.

The Core Science: The Hydration Vulnerability

Lichens are poikilohydrous organisms, meaning their internal moisture levels change with the environment. They have a highly unique biological weakness:

• When dry: Lichens enter a dormant state and are incredibly tough. They can survive high heat up to 65–70°C (149–158°F).
• When wet: Lichens become fully active and lose their heat defenses. In this hydrated state, they are highly sensitive to thermal shock.

Exposing a fully hydrated lichen to controlled heat causes its cell walls to expand rapidly and burst, rendering it unable to photosynthesize, effectively killing it.

The Core Science: How I Apply It

• Pre-Hydration: The lichen-covered surface must be thoroughly soaked with water first. This "wakes up" the lichen and lowers its heat tolerance.
• Heat Application: Intense, controlled heat is applied to the wet surface. This is typically achieved using professional a hot water steam cleaner.
• Temperature & Timing: Brief exposure to hot steam at 150°C+ (~300°F+) is used to quickly rupture the cells.

In Short

I destroy the protective shell (the visible white patches) with 2200 PSI, and use steam to eradicate the organism underneath. Typically 2–4 years before anything visible returns, depending on shade, tree cover and drainage. Sealing adds a few years on top. Deep shade will always come back fastest — I'll tell you honestly when I see yours.

The questions I get asked most about lichen — answered honestly, including the parts that don't sell the job.

Will the lichen come back?

Yes, eventually. Lichen is a living organism and its spores are in the air, so nothing removes it permanently — anyone telling you otherwise is selling you something. What I can do is kill what's there properly and improve the conditions that let it take hold. Typically 2–4 years before anything visible returns. A shaded drive, or one that stays damp, will always come back fastest. I'll tell you honestly when I see yours.

Why are you dearer than the man with a jet wash?

Because he's selling you an hour and I'm selling you a day. He'll knock the white patches off the surface and leave the organism underneath — which is why it's back inside a year. I strip the crust, then kill what's beneath it with 170°C steam, then deal with the joints, because that's where it starts again. If all you want is the white gone this weekend, honestly, he's your man. That's the difference you're paying for.

Why shouldn't I just hire a jet washer and do it myself?

For light green algae on concrete — do it yourself. A decent machine and a dry weekend will sort that, and I won't pretend otherwise. Lichen on natural stone is a different problem. It's bonded into the surface, so it needs heat to kill it and patience to lift without etching the stone or blowing the joints out. That's usually where DIY ends up costing more than I would have.

What does this driveway actually cost me over five years?

The cheapest quote is rarely the cheapest outcome. If the surface is only washed, expect it back within a year — so that's five visits over five years, and the stone takes a hit each time. Done properly and left unsealed, most drives go 2–4 years between treatments. Sealed, longer still. Fewer visits, and no damage in between.

Should I wait until spring?

Mostly yes — and I'll tell you so. Steam works year round, but if your paving is holding moisture going into winter, treating it now means it can show again by spring. In that case I'll often say leave it and book me for March or April. I'd rather do it once at the right time than twice for the sake of an invoice.

What happens if I'm not happy?

You walk round it with me before I pack up, in daylight, and we look at it together. If something isn't right, I sort it. I live in Great Horkesley — I'm not disappearing — and I'd rather come back than leave a driveway I'm not proud of with my name on it.

Part of what makes my services popular is I don't turn up, do the job and dissapear, you'll be involved in the process, I'll show you whats been done, and why, I'll listen to your comments while the work is being completed and make appropriate changes

What won't you do?

I won't use sodium hypochlorite, even where it would be quicker and cheaper for me. I won't seal paving that's damp — it fails, and I'd be the one coming back to fix it. And I won't take on a job I can't do properly, even if you're happy to pay for it. Those three limits are the reason the rest of it is worth anything.

Why only one property a day, and why the £100 minimum?

Because setup, travel and packing down take as long as the cleaning does, and I'd rather do one driveway properly than three badly. The £100 minimum is just that — a day's capacity has a floor. If your job is smaller, ask anyway, contact me on WhatsApp.

Like I say, I'm old school, I'm not rushing to more jobs later, I'd rather do one job exceptionally, and take my time. While money is important, for me its third in line, 1st. It's doing the work to a high standard so I'm not returning every year, 2nd.

Making you happy so you'll refer me to your friends and family, and 3rd, the reward, the money I can take home, knowing I've completed the work to the absolute best of my ability (no cutting corners, no skimping on product, 100% ethical).